old house why do metal electrical boxes stickbput so far To fix an electrical box that is sticking out, you can use an extender ring to bring the box flush with the wall surface. Alternatively, you can remove the existing box and install a new one that is the correct size for the wall depth.
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0 · outlet box sticking out too far
1 · fixing a box that sticks out
2 · box stuck too far into wall
3 · box stuck out too far
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As with any home improvement project, you should shut the power off to the outlet before attempting any work. This is a very simple task if you are working with one outlet box, but if you . See moreIf you have an outlet box that sticks out too far and is in the way of your furniture, here’s how to fix it. Â R moves the screws from both sides of . See more I've got several rooms in an addition added by the previous owners where some/all of the electrical boxes stick out enough that they prevent the outlet covers from reaching the .Hello, I’m trying to fix the outlets in an older house built around 1967. Most boxes are two prong but have ground connection to the metal box. Had on open ground on a gfci outlet in the kitchen so I swapped it out for a new one and connected .
I have tried taking a dremmal to them after a good half hour or more and several bits I managed to shave one of the boxes down (they are metal) a bit. However upon trying to . To fix an electrical box that is sticking out, you can use an extender ring to bring the box flush with the wall surface. Alternatively, you can remove the existing box and install a new one that is the correct size for the wall depth. Metal boxes or plastic? If plastic and not sticking out too far they can be shaved with a sharp knife. If plastic you could also cut them out and replace with "remodel" boxes that . My contractor had to re-adjust the outlet boxes set by the electrician because he did not allow for the 1/2" drywall. but then the contractor set a couple of them too far out and .
outlet box sticking out too far
It appears that the tabs are breaking so the boxes will stick out a little from the wall and move when you try to unplug something. The only solution I've found is to by a new box and use the . There is some sort of metal bar that is preventing the GFCI outlet from going all the way in. It's the rusty, round bar at the bottom of the receptacle in the below picture. What is .
Why so much - it was probably what was common when the house was wired or re-wired. If it's really less than 30 years old, (may just be in better shape than you expect for its age) perhaps .Many old houses with metal boxes don't have grounding systems connected to the box anyway. So I've never seen a point in replacing a small metal box with a bigger metal box on a old house with no grounding system. Nor have I seen a metal box set up with the remodeling profile to allow to person to not cut the wall open and have to patch around . The metallic outlet or switch boxes should be securely fastened to the studs and the opening in the wallboard facing should be cut so that the clearance between the box and the wallboard does not exceed 1/8 in. The .Baby proofing the place is a time suck for sure! Just went through it in my new (to me) house. Replaced all the outlets with the tamper proof ones which took forever. In the process, I encountered a few boxes like that. I wasn’t a fan of .
Well, you are going to need to use a metal box, so unfortunately you can't take advantage of the many old work plastic boxes. It looks like there is a hole in the center of the circle, I would stick a piece of bent wire into the hole to feel around for a stud. If there is a stud, you can just cut out the sheathing and mount a pancake box to the .the second major differentiator between plastic and metal boxes as far as switches and Outlets are concerned is that plastic boxes have a 2 inch by 4 in footprint, which quite frankly is a little bit easier to work with for tucking the wires in whereas gangable metal wall case boxes are 2x3 footprint and you have to compensate with more depth . Furthermore,how far should an electrical box stick out? According to Article 314.20 of the National Electrical Code, electrical boxes that are installed in walls or ceilings with surface materials consisting of “concrete, tile, gypsum, plaster, or other non-combustible material” must be positioned such that the forward (outer) edge of the box is recessed no more than one- Feb . Hoping someone can see what we did wrong, or if not, agree that the electrical boxes we used have a design flaw! Link here: Carlon 1-Gang 18 cu. in. Shallow New Work Electrical Box-SNO18-6R - The Home Depot We selected the shallow, extra width 1 gang electrical boxes so we could fit more insulation behind them on our exterior walls.
Even though cutting holes in drywall for electrical boxes is a small DIY project, you should still use proper safety precautions. Finishing the job is important, but not as important as your health. Tools and Materials Needed To Mark Electrical Boxes. Before you begin marking for electrical boxes, gather the following tools and materials: Members; 284 Gender: Male Location: Ohio Interests: 1951 Farmall H in family since new. Now owned by Mark Davis 3rd my Grandson. 4th H off production line in 1951 M&W 9 speed trans / M&W turbo dome pistons and Hi lift rocker arms / M&W ( No Clog ) front wheel scrapers / M&W Friction Throttle / Char Lynn power steering / Koyker grease gun holder / IH .I found just about every old fixture connected to the old metal electrical boxes with drywall screws - incredibly frustrating, but it looks like 6-32 or 8-32 machine screws usually fit. Well during a recent bathroom remodel, an electrician put a switch into a new work blue plastic 2 gang box and it was with a f-ing drywall screw.
Hello, I’m trying to fix the outlets in an older house built around 1967. Most boxes are two prong but have ground connection to the metal box. Had on open ground on a gfci outlet in the kitchen so I swapped it out for a new one and connected a new ground pigtail from the outlet to the box. I am not sure what is going on here, can anyone help? Note that if you're using metal 4" square boxes (or some plastic types), you have a selection of different depth mud rings you can use, so the box only needs to be parallel to the wall surface, the depth is very non-critical -- just use whatever depth mud ring you need to bring the device mounting location up to flush or very close to flush . Single gang plastic nail on boxes do not normally have strain relief connectors and are not required when stapled within 8" of the box, single gang cut-in (old work) boxes do require strain relief connectors because the cable is not supported when fished in the wall cavity. Personally I prefer metal boxes unless handy/gem boxes are used.
fixing a box that sticks out
Oh in that case its a yes. The ground wire gets attached to all boxes, devices, fixtures, and so on. Basically, if its metal and an electrical device it needs a ground. But the ground does not need to be dedicated, you can just wrap it .
The 2 reasons people use old work plastic boxes (the kind with the tabs that grab onto drywall) is that they are cheaper than a metal "device" box that allows you to screw into the stud from inside the box and all other new work boxes require you to open the wall up to attach them to the stud. There's rasied spots on the side of the box for setting the boxes so they stick out 1/2 from the studs. Do not break the tabs completly off where the wires enter the box, only break off one side. I strip 6" off the insulaion on the romex then slip the wires into the box until the inulation is about 1" inside the box.
Metal boxes are for higher quality work, which is often fairly custom. Versatility is prized over speed. (though you can get quickie metal box variants). I don't know if I'd do it with this modular box, but welded or drawn metal boxes are plenty strong so you can improvise your own mounting scheme. Drill extra holes where you need them, put .
Yes, I like 4" square junction boxes with mud rings. The boxes are mounted so the front edge is exactly flush with the face of the stud or joist, and you use the appropriate mud ring for the single gang or two gangs of devices you want, at the appropriate depth of the wall-covering (often 1/2 inch for drywall).
Just to reiterate, this code is not enforceable by the electrical inspector. The Arlington boxes with the gasket that seals to the drywall are by far the easiest way to do this, but the responsibility is on the GC/builder/insulator so make sure you make money off of using the more expensive boxes that save the other people time and money. Easier to do it after, especially if you have access to the back side. That way you can center the box opening in the exposure, with no chance of miscalculation. (Remember to figure in the top lip of the cover plate when placing the box near the top of the exposure, and also include any clearance needed to allow the weather shield to open.)
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Octagon boxes come in different depths too, @robl45. Be aware, though, that replacing the box in the ceiling (especially if the box there is a new work box that's nailed into a ceiling rafter) isn't a 15-minute task, and will likely require removal of some drywall from the ceiling with subsequent patching and attempting to match the ceiling .Ok so I have a single-gang metal "new work box" currently installed, attached to the stud with straps. I'm adding a device so I need to install a 2-gang metal old work box in it's place. I need a box that's deep, and with the knockouts far back because there's a lot of shit in the box that's going to need room. This is the best I could find at HD.
A bigger box. Don't downgrade from a metal box to a plastic one. While the old "handy-boxes" were small and sized for their time, modern joists-and-drywall metal boxes are perfectly large. Stay with metal, not least for fire resistance (better heat dissipation) but also because some older grounding schemes depend on them.The meter box needs to open freely, you don't want to have to apply force to it so the meter doesn't fall out or get dislodged and create an arc flash as they're opening the box. Build a fence like looking box and place it in front of these boxes, make sure it isn't anchored to the ground and can be moved if a meter reader needs to get to it.
If there truly is no 10-32 tapped hole in the box, then I'd remove the grounding wires from the box mounting screws, nut them to a pair of 12AWG bare pigtails, and land one pigtail on the GFCI's grounding screw and the other on a self-drilling grounding screw (Garvin GSST or equivalent, note that it must be 10-32 UNF to meet NEC 250.6, coarse . All the new 3 prong outlets I installed in this room replacing old 2 prong outlets also had no grounding wire. However, all the outlet boxes and the switch box are metal. . In 1960 all the boxes were metal, so that alone doesn't tell us anything. Merely being a metal box doesn't ground it; there'd need to be a wire or metal pipe (conduit .
box stuck too far into wall
box stuck out too far
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old house why do metal electrical boxes stickbput so far|box stuck out too far